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	<title>John&#039;s Adventures Teaching in Peru</title>
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		<title>Family Vacation in Lima, Cuzco and Machu Picchu!</title>
		<link>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=473</link>
		<comments>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=473#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2012 03:08:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=473</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Exactly one week ago I was sitting here in the courtyard of my Cuzco hostel and I was ready to post some videos showing the great time Grace and Michael and I had in Lima, Cuzco and Machu Picchu. Unfortunately, &#8230; <a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=473">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Exactly one week ago I was sitting here in the courtyard of my Cuzco hostel and I was ready to post some videos showing the great time Grace and Michael and I had in Lima, Cuzco and Machu Picchu.  Unfortunately, the hostel&#8217;s WIFI wasn&#8217;t cooperating so I couldn&#8217;t complete the post.  The next morning at 5:30, I left for a one week tour of the rainforest in Manu National Park.  I have just returned from that tour and re-checked-in to the hostel so I&#8217;m finally getting the chance to complete the post.  During the week in the jungle, we had no internet, cell-phone service, and often no electricity.  The tour was fascinating but tiring and I&#8217;ll post more about it later.  This post will focus on the reunion with my family here in Peru.</p>
<p>Grace, Michael, and I spent two days in Lima and five days in the Cuzco area.  We had a great time but were pretty exhausted by the time they left.  I&#8217;ve prepared five videos that cover the highlights of our time together and they are, hopefully, self-explanatory.  If something isn&#8217;t clear, as always, your comments and questions are welcomed.</p>
<p><b>Video: Our Lima Hotel and Surrounding Area (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_475" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 650px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/lima-hotel-cats-mall.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/IMG_8367-1024x768.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8367" width="640" height="480" class="size-large wp-image-475" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Grace &#038; Michael in front of Hotel Castellana</p></div></p>
<p><b>Video: Our Lima Tours (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_477" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 650px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/lima-tours.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/3-of-us-in-front-of-church-again-1024x732.jpg" alt="" title="3-of-us-in-front-of-church-again" width="640" height="457" class="size-large wp-image-477" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">John, Grace &#038; Michael in front of Franciscan Monastery</p></div></p>
<p><b>Video: Tour of Cuzco&#8217;s &#8220;Sacred Valley&#8221; (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_482" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 650px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/sacred-valley.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/IMG_8539-1024x768.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8539" width="640" height="480" class="size-large wp-image-482" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Enjoying Views in Sacred Valley near Cuzco</p></div></p>
<p><b>Video: Taking Train to Machu Picchu (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_483" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 650px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/train-to-mp.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/IMG_8588-1024x768.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8588" width="640" height="480" class="size-large wp-image-483" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Grace and Michael on Train to Machu Picchu</p></div></p>
<p><b>Video: Machu Picchu (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_486" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 650px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/machu-picchu.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/IMG_87191-1024x768.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8719" width="640" height="480" class="size-large wp-image-486" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">We made it!!!</p></div></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Huaraz</title>
		<link>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=415</link>
		<comments>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=415#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Apr 2012 21:39:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[It&#8217;s been a very nice week here in Huaraz, Peru. I came here on the overnight bus from Trujillo about eight days ago. The bus left at 9:30pm, heading south for several hours before turning east and starting the slow &#8230; <a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=415">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s been a very nice week here in Huaraz, Peru. I came here on the overnight bus from Trujillo about eight days ago. The bus left at 9:30pm, heading south for several hours before turning east and starting the slow climb into the mountains. Of course, I couldn’t see any of the countryside at night: I tried to sleep in my very comfortable seat which reclined to nearly horizontal but I got only an hour or two of sleep. I was awake when the sky started to lighten and I could peak out at the sleeping pueblos in the now mountainous terrain. By 8:00am Saturday morning we reached Huaraz, about 10,000 feet above sea level. I didn’t feel any immediate effect of the altitude but the uphill walk to my hostel dragging my luggage made it clear breathing was more difficult here.</p>
<p>The first thing I noticed about Huaraz was the beautiful setting: spectacular snow-covered mountains in the distance and green hills all around us. Clearly, they get a lot more rain here than on the coast. Although Huaraz is only about 150 miles from Trujillo, it felt like a different country. As I walked to the hostel I passed a man leading a cow down the street. I made my way uphill to my hostel, the Alpes Huaraz. I had read great things about this hostel on TripAdvisor.com and was hopeful my room would be nice. As I sit here 8 days later, relaxing in the dining area until catching my bus to Lima at 10:00pm, I feel it was the perfect place to relax and see a little of the mountains. Run by owners Rosa and Juan (who are of my generation) it provides clean, comfortable, quiet rooms with private baths for only $17(USD)/night. This includes a continental breakfast: for a dollar or so more you can add eggs to it. The breakfast dining area includes an outdoor patio and a comfortable, bright indoor seating area that doubles as a lounge area at any other time of the day. Of course, WI-FI is available throughout the property,  </p>
<p>Rose and Juan are delightful.  They don&#8217;t speak English (Rosa understands a lot) but there is always an English-speaking staff member on duty.  Alpes-Huaraz is a very popular hostel for backpackers and trekkers.  This region of Peru has some of the best climbing/hiking opportunities in the western hemisphere, including the Santa Cruz Trail. Most of the guests here are young but a few are of my age. The video below will give you a feel for the hostel.</p>
<p><b>Video: Alpes Huaraz Hostal (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_431" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/alpes-huaraz-hostal.html"><img class="size-full wp-image-431" title="alpes-huaraz-hostal" src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/alpes-huaraz-hostal.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Outdoor Dining Area for Breakfast or Relaxing</p></div></p>
<p><b>The Town of Huaraz</b><br />
<br />
Being a mountain town, many of the people here are descendents of the native &#8220;Indian&#8221; people who were here long before the Spanish arrived. The history of these peoples is long and complicated but I can tell you that they are descended from multiple sub-cultures that have lived in the area over the centuries, the most recent being the Incas. They are darker-skinned, have their own customs and way of dressing and even their own language, Quechua. Coastal Peru (e.g. Lima, Trujillo) is where the colonial Spaniards settled and established their power base after crushing the Inca Empire.  Therefore, there are more fairer-skinned people there who are descendants of the Spanish colonialists. The true story of Peru is complicated and beyond my knowledge base.  For an excellent overview of Peruvian culture, ethnicities and history, see <a href="http://www.everyculture.com/No-Sa/Peru.html">this article</a>. </p>
<p>Huaraz is much smaller than Trujillo and very different in character. There are no malls, no movie theaters, no Starbucks or KFCs. Everything is much greener because it rains frequently and you often hear birds singing. The following video will give you a little taste of the city of Huaraz.</p>
<p><b>Video: Around Huaraz (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_419" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/around-huaraz.html"><img class="size-full wp-image-419" title="IMG_8104" src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8104.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Iglesia (church) San Francisco (near hostel)</p></div></p>
<p>In addition to the multi-day trekking opportunities, many day tours are available and I took several of these. The English-speaking staff at the hostel arranged for the tour company to pick me up in front of the hostel. </p>
<p><b>Visiting Chavin de Huantar</b><br />
<br />
This ancient site had human occupants at least as early as 3000 BC and served as an important religous/ceremonial center for the Chavin civilization which was centered here between 1200 BC and 400 AD. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, excavation and research is still in progress. Its multiple temples are made from large, skillfully carved stones, demonstrating a mastery of stone masonry that the later Incas continued to refine in monuments in Cuzco and Macchu Piccu. Religious ceremonies in Chavin de Huantar seem to have involved the ingestion of mescaline (from a local cacti): apparently to help the shamans communicate with the gods. I learned most of this from the Wikipedia article because our tour guide spoke no English.  Although I could pick up a few things, he spoke rapidly and I found it exhausting to try to keep up with him. Overall, I’m not sure I would say it was worth the 3-hour (one way) bumpy trip from Huaraz, although there was some spectacular scenery along the way. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get good photos/videos from a van on such a bumpy road. Some photos of the day are below.<br />
<div id="attachment_447" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8160.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8160.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8160" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-447" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Beautiful Lake Enroute to Chavin de Huantar</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_448" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8194.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8194.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8194" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-448" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Entrance to One of the Partially-Unearthed Chavin Temples</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_449" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8206.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8206.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8206" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-449" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One of Many Stone &quot;Gargoyles&quot; Adorning Exterior Walls of Temples</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_450" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8209.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8209.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8209" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-450" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Inscribed Conch Shell Retrieved from Chavin de Huantar</p></div><br />
<br />
<b>Hiking in Huascaran National Park</b><br />
Near Huaraz there is a national park named after the mountain which is the fourth highest in the western hemisphere (22,000 feet).  One of the day tours was a six-hour hike to an alpine lake in the park named Lago 69.  To get to the trail head we had to leave Huaraz at 6AM and ride for 3 hours over very bumpy roads.  The hike starts at 13,100 feet and concludes at the lake at an altitude of 15,000 feet.  It takes about 3 hours to reach the lake and about 2 hours to return to the trail head.  I had been taking altitude-sickness pills prescribed by my doctor in anticipation of having trouble breathing at these heights.  All of the other hikers in my tour group were young people from Israel and I wondered if I would be able to keep up with them.  It turned out I couldn&#8217;t make it all the way to the lake: I was just too exhausted to make the final push up a very steep ascent of 100 meters.  Knowing that the trail included many places where you trampled over wet rocks, it seemed wiser and safer to turn back and save my strength for the 2-hour return journey.  I was a little disappointed not to see the beautiful lake but the path itself was quite beautiful and I enjoyed it greatly.  I wasn&#8217;t sure if altitude played a role in my exhaustion &#8211; it seemed to me that it would have been difficult to do the same climb starting at sea level!<br />
<b>Video: Hiking in Huarscaran National Park (click on photo)</b><br />
<div id="attachment_452" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 2282px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/lake-69.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8256.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8256" width="2272" height="1704" class="size-full wp-image-452" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One of the Waterfalls on the Trail to Lago 69</p></div></p>
<p><b>Horseback Riding in Yungar</b><br />
One day I took a horseback ride in the nearby town of Yungar.  I arranged to be picked up at the hotel about 8:00am.  The man who came to pick me up was about 40 years old, handsome, and off medium build.  We made small talk in Spanish and I quickly realized he spoke no English. I was able to learn his name (Eder), that he had three children and eight horses and he asked about my family.  We walked to a combi (called &#8220;collectivos&#8221; here in the mountains) station and caught a van north to Yungar.  Twenty minutes later we were dropped off very near his little house which has a small pasture and stable in the rear. It turned out he had his wife Maria lead me on the ride, on a gentle horse that obeyed my every command (except when I tried to make him go the wrong way <img src='http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> .  Maria was wearing traditional Andean women clothing, including the special hat and puffy skirts.  I don&#8217;t know much about the clothing but I have noticed the ladies wear a large variety of interesting large hats and that they carry both babies and goods in a large cloth wrapped around their back.  For more information see this very interesting <a href="http://www.myperu.org/traditional_clothing_peru.html"> article on traditional Andean clothing</a>. The ride was supposed to last four hours but I told Maria 2 or 2 and half would be plenty for me. She rode behind me the whole time as I guess she could keep a better eye on my horse if it acted up.  I really enjoyed the ride past all the farms and interesting flora and fauna.  And the views of Mount Huascaran in the national park were spectacular!<br />
<b>Video: Horseback Ride in Yungar Near Huaraz</b><br />
<div id="attachment_458" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 2282px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/horseback-riding.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8334.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8334" width="2272" height="1704" class="size-full wp-image-458" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">My Trail Guide Maria &#038; Her Horse</p></div><br />
<br />
<b>Visiting a Glacier in Huascaran National Park</b><br />
On my final full day in Huaraz I joined a tour to a mountain known as Pastoruri.  Also in the national park, but further south, it was about a 2.5 hour drive to reach the mountain.  Along the way we saw giant puya raimondi plants, which reach heights of 45 feet when they bloom (and die.)  When we reached our final destination, there was a one mile walk to reach the glacier.  I found it extremely tiring although it was much less walking/climbing than I had done two days earlier at Lago 69.  Again, I failed to reach the top of the trail and, again, I was a little disappointed.  However, I was heartened to learn that this trail was even higher than the Lago 69 trail, starting at the same altitude as that lake (15000 feet) and climbing another thousand feet or so.  The highlight of the day for me was meeting two nice young Dutch girls, a nice couple from Hong Kong, and a doctor from Seoul, Korea who told me about his sudden need to visit the Galapagos Islands and South America.  Some photos from the day are below.<br />
<div id="attachment_459" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 2282px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8358.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8358.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8358" width="2272" height="1704" class="size-full wp-image-459" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Visiting the Amazing Puya Raimondi Plants</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_460" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 2282px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8359.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8359.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8359" width="2272" height="1704" class="size-full wp-image-460" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Beautiful View Near the Glacier</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_461" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 730px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_0290.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_0290.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_0290" width="720" height="960" class="size-full wp-image-461" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yours Truly at a Spring on the Way to the Glacial Lake</p></div><br />
<br />
<b>Next Adventure: Together with Grace and Michael!!!!</b><br />
<br />
In just a few hours, I&#8217;ll board a bus for Lima.  I&#8217;ll arrive there tomorrow morning and take a taxi to a hotel in the Miraflores section near the beach.  I&#8217;ll check-in and spend the day relaxing.  In the evening, I&#8217;ll go the airport to meet Grace and Michael who&#8217;ll be arriving about 10:30pm.  It will be SO GREAT to see them!  From there, <i>my</i> adventure will become <i>our</a> adventure, family-style!</p>
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		<item>
		<title>&#8220;You&#8217;ve Got to Be Taught!&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=406</link>
		<comments>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=406#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:05:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=406</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve been in Huaraz for 4 or 5 days now, mostly resting but taking in some sights too. Before I start posting about Huaraz, there is one more Trujillo item I&#8217;d like to cover. On my very last day teaching, &#8230; <a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=406">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve been in Huaraz for 4 or 5 days now, mostly resting but taking in some sights too. Before I start posting about Huaraz, there is one more Trujillo item I&#8217;d like to cover.  On my very last day teaching, I noticed the fifth graders were having dance class outside under the awning.  Tolu and Vinny graciously offered to handle our assigned class without me for a while so I could get the video below. </p>
<p>I think a common stereotype at home is that &#8220;Latin people are great dancers.&#8221;  The video may provide some insight into why there may be some truth to the stereotype.  It&#8217;s also interesting to note that the boys seem to enjoy dancing at least as much as the girls&#8230; if not more.  Watch the teacher spend some time helping one girl: in a very short time, she was keeping up with him.  </p>
<p><strong>Video: Fifth-Grade Dance Class (click on photo)</strong><br />
<div id="attachment_407" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 404px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/dance-class.html"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/fifth-graders-dancing.png" alt="" title="fifth-graders-dancing" width="394" height="296" class="size-full wp-image-407" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fifth Grade Dance Class</p></div></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Goodbye to Trujillo</title>
		<link>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=379</link>
		<comments>http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=379#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Apr 2012 01:54:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=379</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;m sitting in my very nice hostel room in Huaraz, where I&#8217;m trying to recover from a sleepless night on the bus and to adjust to the thin air here at 10,000 feet above sea level.  My first impressions of Huaraz &#8230; <a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=379">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m sitting in my very nice hostel room in Huaraz, where I&#8217;m trying to recover from a sleepless night on the bus and to adjust to the thin air here at 10,000 feet above sea level.  My first impressions of Huaraz are&#8230;. Wow! &#8230; but I&#8217;ll write more about that later.  In this post, I want to describe my final days in Trujillo.</p>
<p><strong>My Final English Classes at the Primary Schools</strong><br />
All week I was keenly aware that each class was my final one with these particular kids. I had decided not to tell any of the kids I would be leaving but made an exception for Samita, the little girl who has referred to me as &#8220;grandpa.&#8221; It didn&#8217;t seem to phase her. Elizabeth, who has a lot of experience with these kinds of things, told me that it may be beyond the kids&#8217; comprehension to imagine someone going away to another country and not returning. People here cannot really afford to travel so the kids may think that if someone is here now, they will always be here.</p>
<p>On Thursday, my final class day, we taught pre-school, grade 5 and grade 3. Pre-school was fun because the kids are getting more comfortable with us and seem to look forward to our arrival. I led the kids in singing a very simple song: &#8220;Hello, hello, how are you?&#8221; sung to the tune of &#8220;London Bridge.&#8221; They seemed to like it even though the English is too hard for them. What was funny was that, every time I asked if they wanted to sing it again (&#8220;Otra vez?&#8221;) most kids cried out &#8220;Siiiiiii!!!&#8221; but one little boy drowned out all the others with &#8220;Nooooo!!!!&#8221; We sang it several times: each time I asked if they wanted to sing again his &#8220;Nooooo!!!!&#8221; was the loudest cry. It was my first exposure to a 4-year-old heckler.  At break-time some of the pre-schoolers found me sitting in the shade and piled on.  I pretended they were hurting me which got joyful laughter: nothing better for the soul than a belly laugh from someone under 4 <img src='http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Later, the same &#8220;Hello&#8221; song was well-received by the third-graders as I finished my final class. The third-grade teacher keeps the curtains drawn, stopping any air-flow and making it extremely hot in her room. My thinking that morning was &#8220;this is the last time I have to teach in this oven!&#8221; This particular teacher is also one of the most supportive to volunteers: staying in the classroom most of the time and handling discipline issues. When class ended and the children were placing their chairs on their desks, I mentioned to her that today was my last day and I thanked her for all her help. She immediately told the kids to put their chairs back on the floor and sit down. Then, she asked for volunteers to say a few words of goodbye to me. About 4 or 5 students made little speeches: I couldn&#8217;t hear much in the noisy room with their soft voices but I did recognize the &#8220;thank you for teaching us.&#8221; Tolu said she recognized &#8220;from the heart.&#8221;  Despite my inability to capture the full meaning, I was touched by their efforts and sincerity. I also enjoyed many goodbye hugs, in the classroom, and as I was leaving the school</p>
<p><strong>Goodbye to My Adult English Students</strong><br />
I&#8217;ve been teaching a basic English conversation class Mon, Wed, and Thursday evenings for the last 4 or 5 weeks . Although I enjoy it because it&#8217;s similar to my volunteer job at the Connection in Summit, there hasn&#8217;t been any continuity in student attendance: many students take advantage of the &#8220;first week free&#8221; offer but then stop coming when they must start paying the 30 soles ($12) per month. The last few weeks, my young roommate, Vinny has joined me and I think we&#8217;ve been very effective as a teaching team. Three young ladies have been regular students and our sessions have been both instructive and fun. Two of the young ladies, Merly and Maria Elena, are enrolled in a local English school and they see our class as an opportunity to practice conversation with native English speakers. They hope to get jobs on one of the cruise ships that stop at Lima.  English competency is an important prerequisite for getting hired, even for people working as housemaids.</p>
<p>On Thursday, Maria Elena gave me a nice Peru key-chain as a going-awy gift.  And, she and Merly asked us if we would like to have dinner with some friends.  It took me a few minutes to understand that what she meant was they had brought cheese, bread, and juice and would like to provide our dinner.  So, after class, we enjoyed a delicious, light meal together.  They both expressed their appreciation for my efforts to help them with their English and I was touched to hear it.  The evening before, we had taken the photos you see below.  It was really nice to finish my adult classes on such a high note.<br />
<div id="attachment_391" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8068.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8068.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8068" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-391" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lupe, Vinnie, Maria Elena, John and Merly</p></div><br />
<strong>Goodbye to Espaanglisch</strong><br />
I had told everyone in the Espaanglisch hostel that all I wanted for my &#8220;goodbye&#8221; was to have dinner together on Friday evening, before I headed to the bus station. So, Elizabeth, Tolu, Vinnie and Marcas and I enjoyed a nice dinner at one of my favorite restaurants (see photo below.)<br />
<div id="attachment_395" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8087.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8087.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8087" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-395" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">John, Tolu, Marcas, Elizabeth &#038; Vinnie at Panotti&#039;s Restaurant</p></div><br />
I had wanted Tia Carmen and Tia Ana (her sister) to join us but had no luck getting them out of the house.  I wanted to buy their dinner as a gesture of thanks for all the hard work they had done making our house livable, and for their patience (well, usually) in helping me communicate in Spanish.  Since I couldn&#8217;t get them to come to dinner, I ordered a cake with &#8220;Muchas Gracias, Tia Carmen y Tia Ana&#8221; on it. After dinner we all enjoyed the cake and I got some nice photos.  Unfortunately, Tia Carmen stubbornly refused to pose for any photographs. As time for my departure neared, my two Spanish teachers, Noe and Lourdes, came by.  They had wanted to come to dinner but were busy teaching in Huanchaco.  Tolu made a nice speech about how much she had enjoyed working with me.  Noe and Lourdes gave me nice gifts, as did Elizabeth.  Noe&#8217;s gift was a tee-shirt with &#8220;Inca-Kola&#8221; on the front (Inca-Kola is the local favorite: it tastes like bubble gum.)  Lourdes gave me a couple of nice key-chains and Elizabeth gave me something I can use in my next teaching assignment: wooden stamps with English sayings like &#8220;Good Job!&#8221; etc.  We had a great time laughing and teasing together, including a sequence where I removed the tee-shirt while making &#8220;bump-and-grind&#8221; stripper moves.  When I had it off, I threw it to my groupies (Tolu and Lourdes) who screamed in excitement.  Some photos from the evening follow:<br />
<div id="attachment_397" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8097.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8097.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8097" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-397" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Tia Ana, Elizabeth and John</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_398" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8096.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8096.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8096" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-398" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Marcas, John and Vinnie</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_399" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8091.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8091.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8091" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-399" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Noe, John and Lourdes</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_400" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8094.jpg"><img src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_8094.jpg" alt="" title="IMG_8094" width="1600" height="1200" class="size-full wp-image-400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Tolu and John</p></div><br />
This teaching assignment has been a difficult one for me.  A lot of it has been great fun and very rewarding but the long combi rides, long days and constant uncertainty of whether we were really prepared for class had worn me down.  For that reason, up until the last few hours before leaving, my focus had been on finishing and moving on to a more relaxing venue. But, those final hours together made me realize I had made some nice connections with people here and it was a little difficult to say goodbye.  I feel lucky to have worked with these wonderful people and I will always remember them</p>
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		<title>Archaeology II:  Chan Chan</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 15:24:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Between Trujillo and Huanchaco lies a large, undeveloped, unimpressive plain covered with scrub plants and large sand piles. These mounds of sand are actually the ruins of an extremely large adobe brick city built around 850 AD and known as &#8230; <a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=354">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Between Trujillo and Huanchaco lies a large, undeveloped, unimpressive plain covered with scrub plants and large sand piles. These mounds of sand are actually the ruins of an extremely large adobe brick city built around 850 AD and known as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chan_Chan">Chan Chan</a>. This city served as the imperial center of the Chimu civilization and was the largest pre-Columbian (before 1492) city in South America. The Chimu civilization grew out of the remnants of the Moche society which declined about 650AD (<a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/?p=298"> see my earlier post on the Moche temples</a>.) Apparently, as many as 30,000 people lived in Chan Chan before it was conquered by the Incas about 1470.</p>
<p>Neglect, looting and the occasional heavy rains brought by &#8220;El Nino&#8221; have turned what was must have been an extremely impressive city into piles of sand, with occasional glimpses of the original adobe bricks. The area is protected in that the land cannot be developed but most of it continues to slowly recede into the earth. One area, however, known as the Tschudi Complex has been unearthed and rebuilt to show what the city once looked like.</p>
<p>Highlights of what is known about the Chimu include that they worshipped the moon, they believed the sea was the origin of life and the gateway to the next life, and they, apparently, sacrified young women in attempts to stave off the devastating effects of El Nino, which could bring great hardship to the people. Some of the carvings on the elaborate walls you&#8217;ll see in the video below are of pelicans and a kind of conch (shellfish.) It is believed the local shamans used the appearance of this conch to  predict the arrival of the El Nino storms.  Indeed, scientific evidence has shown that the conch do move south (from the waters off Ecuador, their normal habitat) to escape the rising water temperatures. Unfortunately, the Chimu shamans used this rational warning signal in an irrational way: by sacrificing young women to appease the gods threatening the devastating storms.</p>
<p>In the video below, you&#8217;ll see a man dressed in the attire of a Chimu noble (or warrior?) posing for photos. He was quite impressive looking but he also spoke English very well, as in&#8230;. &#8220;Hey, I accept tips!  I&#8217;m working very hard for you here!&#8221;  I gave him a tip &#8211; he had a point&#8230; it was really hot in the sun.</p>
<p>The tour we took visited three different sites, a temple in Trujillo very near the Simon Bolivar School where I taught, the Chan Chan Museum (Museo de Sito Chan), and the Tschudi Complex. Since we took the English speaking tour, the three of us (Marcas, Vinny and I) were joined by several other people. Two of them were a nice young couple from San Francisco, named Cedric and Mai.  I asked them how they ended up in Trujillo since it&#8217;s not really a major tourist destination. They told me they were &#8220;driving through.&#8221; Yes, that&#8217;s right, they were driving through on their way south to Machu Picchu (and, possibly points further south.)  Along with their two dogs, they left San Francisco about 9 months earlier and have slowly worked their way through Mexico, Central America and into South America.  I asked them how they negotiated the &#8220;gap&#8221; in the Pan American Highway caused by the Panamanian rainforest and they said they had shipped their car around it while they flew over it.  They are presently in Lima, trying to figure out how to drive to Cuzco and Machu Picchu (most people fly because the bus trip is quite long.)  Amazing, isn&#8217;t it?  You meet such interesting people when you take the less-traveled route!</p>
<p><strong>Video: Chan Chan: Chimu Civilization Archaeological Site</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_359" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 1610px"><a href="http://millspaughfamily.net/chanchan.html"><img class="size-full wp-image-359" title="IMG_7999" src="http://millspaughfamily.net/perublog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_7999.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Elaborately carved walls of interior Chan Chan</p></div>
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